Key Largo and the Upper Keys
by Omar Perez
A few hours in the Florida Keys need not take up your entire
weekend. In fact, you can indulge in just about everything
the Conch Republic has to offer in just a few hours - in
Islamorada and Key Largo anyway.
Whatever you wish you do in the Keys-outdoor water sports,
enjoy a good meal, or simply bask in the sun and enjoy some
rum runners-you'll only have to drive 45 minutes away from
Miami. And without the need for a hotel, travelers can spend
their money elsewhere.
The upper Keys have some of nature's most spectacular scenes-much
of them underwater. For scuba divers and snorkelers, The John
Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park allows the chance to swim
along with more than 500 species of fish, including angelfish
and parrotfish, as well as 55 richly hued types of coral.
The park is combined with the adjacent Key Largo National
Marine Sanctuary, covering more than 100 nautical square miles
of pristine waters. One of the most popular diving spots is
the area where the duplicate nine-foot bronze statue of the
Christ of the Deep sits 25 feet under water. (The original
statue lies off the coast of Italy.) Daily boat departures
for snorkelers start at $24, and $37 for scuba divers.
Experienced divers can explore the mysterious remnants of
two Coast Guard 327-foot cutters, which sit 120 feet under
water. For those who prefer to stay dry, glass-bottom boat
rides on the San Jose start at $15 for adults. And for those
who prefer to stay completely dry and on land, there are nature
trails that wind through native foliage, as well as a beach,
picnic and camping grounds.
For those who prefer to catch fish instead of merely watching
them, Islamorada, about 20 miles south of Key Largo, offers
great fishing opportunities, including fishing charter boats.
Game fishing in the Keys is among the most popular activities
for anglers who wish to put up a fight with a marlin that
can last several hours. Fishermen who aren't out to mount
a prized fish on their wall back home can look forward to
the snook, grouper, and yellowtail snapper that frequent the
coast of the Keys.
Keep in mind that no matter what type of fish you're after,
there are many charter boat trips available, from the Key
Largo-based Melo Fishing Charter's 17 1/2-foot Mellow Fellow
(whose rule is "No fish, No Pay") to the 50-foot
Killer White custom Sport Fisherman vessel, stationed at the
Holiday Isle Marina on mile marker 83.5. Rates on the larger
boat start at about $475 for a half-day, four-hour trip, while
an eight-hour trip starts at $700. Split among several people,
the cost is more than fair, considering the high costs of
owning a boat. In this case it's true what they say: The best
boat is someone else's.
If you didn't catch any fish then don't fret. There's plenty
of nearby restaurants, selling probably what you wanted to
catch. For hearty appetites, there's the Coral Grill, on mile
marker 83.5, offering all-you-can-eat buffet specials comprised
of everything from seafood to ribs. The Whale Harbor Inn,
a mile south of the Coral Grill, is also known for bountiful
lunches and dinners. Up the road in Key Largo there's the
Fish House, somewhat rustic and small in size but big on seafood
selection. Making Forest Gump proud, the Fish House offers
fish in many ways, including Blackened, Jamaican style and
smoked.
For sports fans there's Jammers Grill and Pub and Hog Heaven,
both establishments frequented by sports fans who during football
season may want to watch a Miami Dolphins game and possibly
eat a dolphin sandwich-one of Hog Heaven's specialties. (Just
like other establishments in the Keys, broadcasts of blacked-out
Miami Dolphins football games can be seen here.) Miami locals
sometimes make the trip to the area just to enjoy the best
of both the sporting world and the Florida Keys.
Once the meal settles and you're done fantasizing about the
setting sun over water, it's time to get out and experience
some of the nightlife the upper Keys have to offer. It might
not be as bubbling as that of Key West's Duval Street, but
there are still many places to let your hair down.
Woody's, at mile marker 82, is a late-night restaurant and
lounge that serves up dancing and live music until the wee
hours of the night. The venue is known as the home of Big
Dick and the Extenders, a blues/rock band fronted by a tall
Indian named Dick who insults almost everyone within range.
So for those who have a frail ego and can't take a joke, sitting
near the back of the bar is highly recommended.
Volcanoes is the area's more popular dance club. Looking
like a hybrid of a Miami high-energy establishment and a laid-back
Keys setting, Volcanoes is a popular draw for college-aged
visitors in town for any given holiday, or for older natives
who wish to exchange their sandals for some dancing shoes.
Likewise, the Tiki Bar, the area's biggest draw, also offers
late-night dancing, evoked by both live bands and DJs playing
everything from reggae to classic rock to dance.
So whether it's dancing, dining, or discovering, the upper
Keys have a little of everything the entire Keys area has
to offer. And for folks in South Florida it means the chance
to enter another world without embarking on a long odyssey.
