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Key Largo and the Upper Keys
by Omar Perez

A few hours in the Florida Keys need not take up your entire weekend. In fact, you can indulge in just about everything the Conch Republic has to offer in just a few hours - in Islamorada and Key Largo anyway.

Whatever you wish you do in the Keys-outdoor water sports, enjoy a good meal, or simply bask in the sun and enjoy some rum runners-you'll only have to drive 45 minutes away from Miami. And without the need for a hotel, travelers can spend their money elsewhere.

The upper Keys have some of nature's most spectacular scenes-much of them underwater. For scuba divers and snorkelers, The John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park allows the chance to swim along with more than 500 species of fish, including angelfish and parrotfish, as well as 55 richly hued types of coral. The park is combined with the adjacent Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary, covering more than 100 nautical square miles of pristine waters. One of the most popular diving spots is the area where the duplicate nine-foot bronze statue of the Christ of the Deep sits 25 feet under water. (The original statue lies off the coast of Italy.) Daily boat departures for snorkelers start at $24, and $37 for scuba divers.

Experienced divers can explore the mysterious remnants of two Coast Guard 327-foot cutters, which sit 120 feet under water. For those who prefer to stay dry, glass-bottom boat rides on the San Jose start at $15 for adults. And for those who prefer to stay completely dry and on land, there are nature trails that wind through native foliage, as well as a beach, picnic and camping grounds.

For those who prefer to catch fish instead of merely watching them, Islamorada, about 20 miles south of Key Largo, offers great fishing opportunities, including fishing charter boats. Game fishing in the Keys is among the most popular activities for anglers who wish to put up a fight with a marlin that can last several hours. Fishermen who aren't out to mount a prized fish on their wall back home can look forward to the snook, grouper, and yellowtail snapper that frequent the coast of the Keys.

Keep in mind that no matter what type of fish you're after, there are many charter boat trips available, from the Key Largo-based Melo Fishing Charter's 17 1/2-foot Mellow Fellow (whose rule is "No fish, No Pay") to the 50-foot Killer White custom Sport Fisherman vessel, stationed at the Holiday Isle Marina on mile marker 83.5. Rates on the larger boat start at about $475 for a half-day, four-hour trip, while an eight-hour trip starts at $700. Split among several people, the cost is more than fair, considering the high costs of owning a boat. In this case it's true what they say: The best boat is someone else's.

If you didn't catch any fish then don't fret. There's plenty of nearby restaurants, selling probably what you wanted to catch. For hearty appetites, there's the Coral Grill, on mile marker 83.5, offering all-you-can-eat buffet specials comprised of everything from seafood to ribs. The Whale Harbor Inn, a mile south of the Coral Grill, is also known for bountiful lunches and dinners. Up the road in Key Largo there's the Fish House, somewhat rustic and small in size but big on seafood selection. Making Forest Gump proud, the Fish House offers fish in many ways, including Blackened, Jamaican style and smoked.

For sports fans there's Jammers Grill and Pub and Hog Heaven, both establishments frequented by sports fans who during football season may want to watch a Miami Dolphins game and possibly eat a dolphin sandwich-one of Hog Heaven's specialties. (Just like other establishments in the Keys, broadcasts of blacked-out Miami Dolphins football games can be seen here.) Miami locals sometimes make the trip to the area just to enjoy the best of both the sporting world and the Florida Keys.

Once the meal settles and you're done fantasizing about the setting sun over water, it's time to get out and experience some of the nightlife the upper Keys have to offer. It might not be as bubbling as that of Key West's Duval Street, but there are still many places to let your hair down.

Woody's, at mile marker 82, is a late-night restaurant and lounge that serves up dancing and live music until the wee hours of the night. The venue is known as the home of Big Dick and the Extenders, a blues/rock band fronted by a tall Indian named Dick who insults almost everyone within range. So for those who have a frail ego and can't take a joke, sitting near the back of the bar is highly recommended.

Volcanoes is the area's more popular dance club. Looking like a hybrid of a Miami high-energy establishment and a laid-back Keys setting, Volcanoes is a popular draw for college-aged visitors in town for any given holiday, or for older natives who wish to exchange their sandals for some dancing shoes. Likewise, the Tiki Bar, the area's biggest draw, also offers late-night dancing, evoked by both live bands and DJs playing everything from reggae to classic rock to dance.

So whether it's dancing, dining, or discovering, the upper Keys have a little of everything the entire Keys area has to offer. And for folks in South Florida it means the chance to enter another world without embarking on a long odyssey.

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